FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ... and the answers
How do I make a booking?
The best thing to do is choose some guesthouses that appeal to you from the website and ask Fez Riads if they're available. Don't forget to mention your dates, how many rooms you'd like and the bed arrangements (eg double, single, cot). Alternatively, give a price range that suits you and we'll give you a list of the available options, usually within 48 hours. Do mention any disabilities or dietary requirements too.
How do I pay?
Most guesthouses ask for your credit card number, expiry date and security code (the last three digits on the back). Some will take a deposit from your card; most don't unless you cancel at the last moment or don't arrive. Most guesthouses have a cancellation policy which will be sent to you when you want to make a reservation. Read it carefully. If you cancel less than a month before arrival, money will be taken from the card.
What does it cost to book through Fez Riads?
Nothing! The service cost is absorbed by the guesthouses. The exception is at Pension Dar Bouanania, where a once-off charge of Dh250 is levied on each reservation, no matter how many nights or rooms you book. This is because the Pension has very low rates and cannot absorb the charge themselves.
Do I need a confirmation number?
No. Guesthouses in Fez are small (usually 3-6 bedrooms) and work more informally than bigger hotels. A confirmation from Fez Riads is all you need.
How will I find the guesthouse?
All the guesthouses are happy to send a taxi to meet your train, bus or flight. This is rarely included in the room cost. A petit taxi from the station costs around Dh10; a grand taxi about Dh50. A grand taxi from the airport costs Dh120. A member of the guesthouse staff will meet you at the closest drop-off point, organise a cart for your luggage, and take you to the house.
Do I need a guide?
It's useful to hire a registered guide for half a day or more when you first arrive. Your guesthouse will arrange it for you. However, bear in mind that it might be better to go out by yourself at first and get orientated, and then hire a guide. Make sure your guide doesn't take you into lots of shops where he'll earn commission - make it quite clear beforehand if you don't want to shop. Prices are up to 50% higher if you shop with a guide.
What's public transport like?
The railway network is very good. You might like to travel first-class as it's a little more comfortable and not much more expensive. See www.oncf.ma for schedules, but you can't book online. Be warned, though, about men who board the trains at Meknes, target the tourists, and tell them that their hotel has burned down/closed/is full of thieves. It's a scam. They might also try to hire themselves out at guides - don't fall for this either, as they're not registered.
Local buses are best avoided, but inter-city buses are fine. The best bus company is CTM with good vehicles. It's best to go to the CTM bus station and book at least one day in advance but again, you can't book online. Otherwise, get around by taxi. Petit taxis go as far as the city limits; grand taxis go further (the airport run can only be done by grand taxis). You might like to hire a grand taxi for a day to go to Meknes and Volubilis, which will cost Dh800. Otherwise squeeze in with the locals in a shared grand taxi - it's much cheaper.
How do I get from Casablanca to Fez?
Take the shuttle train from the airport; the station is under the airport. You can buy your ticket here straight through to Fez. The shuttle runs on the hour every hour from 06h00 to 22h00 every day, and the journey to Casa Voyageurs station takes 36 minutes. At Casa Voyageurs, change for the train to Fez which takes 4 1/2 hours.
An alternative is to take a grand taxi from the airport and drive up to Fez. This costs Dh1500. Avoid the touts inside the airport who offer to get you a grand taxi; it's not necessary as the taxi rank is right outside the airport.
Also be warned about men who sometimes board the train at Meknes, the last stop before Fez. They seek out the tourists on board and tell them that their hotel is burned down/full of thieves, hoping to lure them to another hotel where they get a commission. They might also offer their services as a guide. Don't be fooled - registered guides don't do this.
What's Fez like in Ramadan?
Ramadan this year starts on 1 September and should finish on 30 September (on sighting the new moon). The fast moves forward 11 days each calendar year in accordance with the Islamic calendar, which is based on lunar months. Muslims refrain from eating, drinking and smoking during daylight hours. Cafés and restaurants are closed during the day and some close altogether during Ramadan as the staff take their annual holiday. Establishments around Bab Boujloud and some restaurants catering solely for tourists remain open during the day. The others reopen for f'tour, or breakfast, at around 17h30 when people take their first meal of the day. It is impossible to get a taxi between 17h00 and 18h00. It's also best not to be walking in the medina at this time as anyone else around when they should be eating will be up to no good! Evenings are lively with a party atmosphere and there are often funfairs in public places. Moroccans eat dinner at around 22h00 - 23h00 and get up before dawn to eat breakfast before the first call to prayer. You might be lucky enough to hear the singer who wanders the streets to wake people at around 3h00 so that they can finish eating before dawn. Tempers can fray towards the end of the afternoon ...
Alcohol is not available in the supermarkets and off-licences are closed from three days before Ramadan until three days after the Eid (celebrations at the end of Ramadan). It is available to foreigners in licensed restaurants, but sometimes the bar or restaurant might run out of some drinks.
It's good to be aware that this is a holy month and clothing should be more conservative than usual. Do not eat, smoke or drink on the streets during this time.
Business hours also change, with banks, post offices and shops closing early so that staff can get home in time for f'tour.